반려견과 성공적인 셰이핑 세션을 설정하는 방법

It's your choice. If you are trying to shape a dog who doesn't understand it's your choice, the dog is going to be so obsessed with the food in your hand, they're not going to be able to think about what to offer. Also, if your dog doesn't have really good, it's your choice. You can't use the location specific reinforcement marker chow because if I say want my dog to back up in a straight line, one of the things I might do is put a bowl with a cookie in it somewhere behind so that as I get a couple steps, one place I might reinforce that dog is by rolling a cookie between their front legs. But I also might just say chow so they turn around and get the cookie right behind them. That might help them to not go in a crooked line when they're backing up. So, the use of chow, I use it pretty much every day when I'm training my puppy right now. I will use chow somewhere in our training. And that's just not possible without it's your choice. All right, crate games. Crate games and hot zone. You could do one or the other, but I got to tell you, if you work through all the stages of crate game, you have so many more of those behavioral blocks. Meaning you have a dog who will run to their crate when they see the crate or when you give them the cue to go in their kennel. And that is a behavioral block that means your dog has been reinforced for leaving you and traveling a great distance to do something that will come in handy when we want to do other things at a distance. So, crate games and hot zone. I would really focus on crate games, but you can do them both for sure because hot zone allows you to train more than one dog at one time. Short sessions. Okay, here's what I'd like you to do after today. I want you all to commit to doing five sessions that are one minute or less. Video those sessions and come back and tell me what you learned. And number six is related to number five, please video your shaping and review the shaping. And there's two things I want you to look for. Number one, you're going to look at what did you expect and what did the dog do? Now you're going to go back and you're going to ignore the dog when you look at the video the next time. What did you do? Because you're going to see a connection in between what the dog did and how you delivered the reinforcement or how you were standing or where you were looking. So, really be critical of your mechanics because that, my friend, has the biggest impact on whether the dog has success or not. How did you arrange your antecedents? I spoke about this in the last episode, but it's just so important.

Now, if I was teaching the dog to back up, I would probably start with myself kneeling on the ground. If you're getting a dog to back up and you were standing up, then the dog might be thinking of things up here. When you're on the ground, the dog is going to be thinking a little bit lower. Plus, your placement of reinforcement can be more exact right between your dog's legs. So, that's encouraging them to back up more. So, the antecedent arrangements, it's not just what are the other distractions around you? It's your placement of reinforcement or how you're holding your tools or how you are sitting, standing, or kneeling yourself. How is that impacting that dog's ability to grasp the concept of what behavioral building block you are looking for them to offer you right now? Because if you do this right, the correct response should be so obvious to the dog. And rather than waiting for the dog to offer something and the dog like trying to grasp something from outer space, like successive approximations sometimes look, both you and the dog are engaged in the process that you're a part of because it's happening fast. Now, there may be some lulls in your training, but they're very, very few and far between. Also, if your training, if your shaping looks chaotic and frantic, and all of a sudden the dog gets a click and a cookie, then that also is not taking you in the path in the right direction because you will be building in all that frantic anxiety into the behavior that you're building. And who wants that? None of us wants frantic or anxious in our dogs. Number eight, resist the urge to talk to your dog or help the dog. If the dog stalls out, give them a moment to process. And if it doesn't, maybe after like 30 seconds or a minute, the dog doesn't look like they're moving towards anything, then just break it off, have them hop it up in the hot zone and rearrange your antecedents. Because if the dog stalls out and you help them by giving them verbal prompts or prompting them with your body or giving them a finger point or giving them a formal command, then you're not really shaping, you're telling. Now, also along with that, I want you to be really conscious of your emotions. Don't sigh like you're ever going to get, don't groan. You can be happy when you are marking and reinforcing the dog. Sure, show that kind of emotion, but don't show disappointment because your dogs are going to feel that. You're going to be neutral. And yes, I can't help but get excited when I see my dogs doing what I expected. So, it's okay to

celebrate with the dog as you're giving them the cookie, but go back into the place of neutrality as you are just an observer of behavior looking for something to mark and reinforce. Number nine, remember that evaluation minute. Every single session has to start with an evaluation session. That's one minute or less. And finally, I'm going to remind you one more time, shaping shouldn't be about successive approximations. It should be about arranging behavioral blocks so that the dog can successfully move through things that they've previously been reinforced before. Four six, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three, three,