사람에게 뛰어오르는 개를 멈추는 방법 #121

And so knowing that what we've got is there because of a great history of reinforcement, let's just create a new history of reinforcement and fix it. Three simple steps. You with me? Step number one, we've got to create the sit as a very high value default position. So I'm going to assume that you can get your dog to sit when you ask them on one cue in any environment, and they will stay there until you give them their release cue. I use the word break. You might say okay or free. If you don't have that sit when I ask and release when I ask, and you'd like to know more about how I achieve that, jump over to YouTube, leave me a comment on this video, and we'll plan to make it part of an upcoming video. So step one, it's all about the sit. We want our dogs to sit beside us. What I call reinforcement zone. Not out in front, beside us. And if that's a problem for you, what you might want to do is visit my video called Perchwork Pivots and Spins, because that gives your dog a target for their front feet. So they learn to hang out right beside you. This is really important. Everything happens in front. So if your dog is already facing you, they have to redirect to what's happening out there. So we got to get the dog to sit beside us on one cue. Now, when I say one cue, how many times does that allow you to repeat the cue? Yeah, it's a little test. A little test in the middle of all this. That would be zero. The dog sits on one cue, and if they don't sit reliably on one cue, they're giving you feedback on your training. They're saying, what you think you taught isn't what I actually learned. So maybe I'm not picking up what you're putting down. You got to do it a different way. Or in this case, I'm not picking up what you're sitting. That didn't make sense, but you know what I mean. So one cue and one cue only. We get our dog, value build and reinforcement zone. If you're going to give your dog a treat around the house, ask them to get in reinforcement zone, give them the treat there. Then release them. Sit and release. This is the habit. We want to create a default. Anything good that happens in this dog's world, they need to sit and then release. Once you've got that brilliantly, now what I want you to do is we're going to put your dog on a leash. So you can start with a short leash, and I would recommend maybe you put the dog on a harness to do this rather than to put them on a collar. This is called the wandering sit stage. So as you're out and about with your dog on leash, you are going to randomly say sit and get that same snappy behavior where the dog just plops her butt down.

You will then move forward to meet the dog in reinforcement zone before you give them a cookie and then they're released. The wandering sit. Here's your assignment. 25 wandering sits a day for seven days. You can do that while building in part two of the assignment, but I'm getting ahead of myself. We've got our wandering sit. And once that's brilliant, you're going to add part one and part two of your sit homework. And that is ask the dog to sit beside you in reinforcement zone. Give them the release word break, which means move out of position. And once they move, ask for another sit. So it's going to be sit, release, sit. And then you come up and reinforce that. And that's the end of that game. Okay. So three parts of your sit homework. Lots of fun. It's just a game. It's all about rewarding your dog. And remember, if they don't get it right, don't go and help them. Go back to where you lost them and build up from there. It's not about you helping them to get this right. It's about them understanding and seeing great value. This is all about a value build at every stage. They see great value for doing what we're asking and they're going to do it immediately. Okay. Step number two, learning to greet. Now, if you remember here on Shaped by Dog, I talked about the invisible bubble of pressure. And what that is, is for some dogs, they're sensitive about people coming into their zone. And they will react in a way that shows that. Maybe they will back away. Maybe they will jump up in an anxious kind of frenetic energy. Whatever it is, we want to test what your dog's natural response is to people coming near them. We're going to do this in a way that the dog can be successful. So number one, if you've played crate games, that's a great way. Our dogs understand the criteria. The crate door is open and I just hang in there until I get a release. So the first thing we're going to do is you're going to be beside the crate. Somebody's going to walk up to your dog and you're going to feed the dog and see what their reaction is. Do they start wiggling? Do they start paddling their paws? So you're going to go, well, they started paddling the paws when the person got about six feet away. Let's start reinforcing them about seven feet away. So that the rehearsal of the paddling the paws when the person comes near starts to go away. Your dog understands you're there to give them reinforcement. You're there to be their big protector and defender. So there's no need for them to get anxious. So number one, can we do it in a crate? Number two, can we do it in a hot zone?

If you're not familiar with hot zone training, I'll leave a link right here on this video where you can click on the puppy games and learn about how we start the hot zone training. It's something like this. Pardon the pun. My puppy, this, is lying on a raised surface. She understands. She doesn't leave there. When people come to greet her there, she can sit. She can down. She can stand. There is no criteria for her other than no paws come off of the hot zone. So it gives the dog the opportunity to learn about greeting people without putting their feet up. If they make a mistake and they come up off the person greeting before the paws come up to touch them, they just take a step away and turn their back. Taking out the reinforcement of number one, attention. Stepping away from the hot zone so the dog can't touch them. No reinforcement to be had. And you take a mental note. Let's do this again. And I'm going to reward my dog for making good choices. Value build on the greeting behavior. Now we're going to add number one to number two. Your dog's going to be in the reinforcement zone on leash. You are going to have somebody you know come close and stand in front and talk to you. Two seconds. Hi, Susan. How's it going? You're going to feed your puppy because ideally they're not paddling or getting excited. If they are, just put a perch down to give them a target for those feet. See how it all comes together? Value build. Value build. Next, the person's going to come in, talk to you, and then say hi to your dog. All goes well. You're going to feed. Make sure you are not using the food to prevent the dog from making a mistake. This is about trying to evaluate what your dog is understanding. Do you understand when you're in reinforcement zone that you need to stay there? Once that's brilliant, now we're going to go to the third step of the greet. And this is the biggie. Now we're ready for the most important stage. And this is one that I have never seen anybody do. And it's the one that helps drive these lessons home. And it's stage number three. It's the re-greet. Here's what happens. What a dog rehearses, they get really good at. And so what we want to do is have that person maybe stop six feet away from your dog or two meters. And you are going to take your dog on a leash and you're going to say, go see. Which means nothing to the dog right now. You're going to say, go see. Follow it by the word break. And as the dog comes into the stranger or the person you know, you're going to say, sit. So the dog may or may not sit. But before they get a chance to respond, you're going to call them back. Call them right back.

Give them a cookie. And do it again. They got a chance to come close but not jump up. And now you are going to bring them back. So it's let them go see. Call them back. Let them go see. Call them back. Eventually you're going to let them go see. And you're going to ask them to sit. And the person can talk to them. They can pat them. They can eventually get to that level. When I take my puppy out to meet people, the first go see, she may make a mistake and start to put her paws up. And I'll just call her back before she gets a chance to do it. It might take, at first, 10 go sees. The last three are good ones. But very quickly, it might be, I'll do five go sees. And I get the last three are good ones and only two that aren't great. And very quickly, they're all great. So it's the re-greet of the same person. If you were to do 100 greeting of people, just one time greeting, you would not get near the success of doing just 10 people but doing 10 re-greets. And by the way, who's got 100 people randomly hanging around their house? If you have two people, you could just do as many as it takes to get three good ones where your dog comes in and sits, three in a row, three in a row. The dog comes in and sits, gets greeted. The person greeting could even give your dog a cookie if you get to that stage. And then you call them back. So it's the greet and re-greet that teaches the dog the value of this is the best way to greet people. Good things happen when you greet this way. It's nowhere near as fun as putting your paws up on a human. Listen, as I said, it's simple and it's easy. It just requires you making the time in your life to play a game with your dog. It's an investment in having a dog who has an amazing future at greeting people. And who wouldn't want that for their dogs? I'll see you next time here on Shaped by Dog.